Jewelry and method of manufacturing the same



H. w. FISHEL. I JEWELRY AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 11 Patented Aug. 8, 19252;

6 mtoz 5 JEWELRY AND ivrn'rrion or MANUFACTURING THE SAME.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patggnted A g I Application filed June 11, 1921. Serial No. i76,797.

T allwhom it may canoe/1%."

Be it known that I, HENRY W. FrsHnL, a

citizen of the United. States, and a resident of the borough of Manhattan, city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Jewelry and Methods of Manufacturing the Same, of which the following is aspecification.

My invention relates to methods of manufacture of jewelry and more particularly to methods of manufacture of articles of jewelry having surrounding galleries. This invention is "a modification of-my two earlier inventions described and claimed in Patents Nos. 1.361,?04 and 7, 1920. I

The objects of my invention are to simplify the manufacture of such. articles of jewelry 1,361,705 of December and to greatly reduce their manufacturing cost. A. further object is the production of articles of jewelry havingfancy or ornamented galleries. in combination with fili- A further object of my invention is the production of articles of jewelry having greater strength and beauty than the saw-pierced articles of jewelry heretofore made. Other objects and advantages of my invention will hereinafter appear in the following description.

I will now describe the embodiment of my invention illustrated. in the accompanying drawing and will thereafter point out my invention in claims.

In the drawing I have shown my invention as applied to the manufacture of a bar pin, but it is equally adapted to the manugree ornamentation.

facture of many other articles of jewelry.

- Figure 1 is a face view of a block or bar of metal adapted to be worked into an article of jewelry.

Figure 2 is a face View of the bar, of metal after the stamping operation.

Figure 3 is a face view of the body of the article of jewelry after the trimming or cutting operation.

Figure 4: is a face view of a bridging portion used in connection with my invention.

Figure 5 is a face view of the body of an article of jewelry surrounded by the bridging portion.

Figure 6 is a face view of a gallery used in connection with my invention.

Figure 7 is a side view of the same.

Figure 8 is a face view ofthe completed article of jewelry. v

Figure 9 is a side view of the same.

Figure 10is a cr0sssecti0n of the same taken on the line 10-10 of Figure 9.

Figures 11, 12. 13 and 14 are face view'of various forms of bridging portion adapted to be used in connection with my invention. My method of manufacturing jewelry comprises four main operations, which are? first, a stamping operation; second, a trimming or cutting operation; third, the opera' tion of fitting the bridgingportion over the body of the articleand soldering or welding 1t thereto; and fourth, the operation of fit ting the gallery over the bridging portion and soldering or'welding it thereto. It is also poss'ible to combine the stamping and cutting operation into a singleoperation, if desired. I 1

In carrying out my inventionfl take a block of suitable metal and place it in a stamping press containing a die shaped to form the body. of the article desired to be manufactured. The block of metal 1 is then stamped and the body 2 of the, jewelry article having a margin 3 of waste metal surrounding it is formed as is shown in Figure 2. I next cut the body 2 fromthe surrounding margin 3 of waste metal with a cutting d e having the same contour as the stamping die. The body 2 is thus completely formed and separated, and as thus formed and separated is shown. in Figure 3.

In the manufacture of galleried jewelry. such as that shown and described in my two patents above referred to, a space is providedbetween the gallery and the body resemblmg saw-piercing In the present invent on I take advantage of this space by providing in place thereof a metal ribbon crimped to resemble filigree work, usually seen only in high grade handmade platinum ewelry. This crimped metal ribbon 6 which is shaped to conform to the contour of the body 2, but is of slightly greater perimeter than the body 2. is placed around the body 2 and soldered or welded to it. A gallery 7 of the same general shape and contour as, but of slightly greater perimeter than the body 2 and surrounding crimped metal ribbon 6', is next placed around the ribbon 6 and. soldered or welded to it. The gallery 7 consists of a narrow strip of metal and it may have a beveled upper portion 8 forming a sharp or knife edge. The gallery may be ornamented if desired. The crimped metal ribbon 6 acts as a bridging portion between the body 2' and the 7. I

ribbon is usually so crimped that thecontacting points thereof Contact alternately with ,the body and thergalle ryythat is; onepoint of the ribbon will be in'co'ntact with p and secured to the body, and the adjoining pointwill b'ein contactwith and secured to the gallery. This distribution-of pointsof contact lends to the strength of the completed article; -The ribbon 6 which is made oiiwery thin metal can be so crimpedthat it takes up very little space-When surroundping the boa e; and gives the appearance ofrerydel-icate filigree work which is ob ta lnableonly in very fine handwork.

- lgtiaobvioi'is that the various modifications v may bie' Inadein the construction shown in the drawing and .;above particularly. de-.. scribed within the principle:an'd scope-of myria i' entionw 1 :claimj, I V- v a v l An article of jewelry comprising a body; prtion,-a crimped meta-lribbon sur'- rounding the body portion, ,agallery sur-:

roundingthe. criinpedmetal ribborn the crimped metal ribbon acting I as: a bridging portion between the body and the gallery.-

2.- An article ,oi jewelry comprising a body portion a crin pedinetal ribbon placed between the body" and the gallery and secured to ,tl 1e1bo,g ly atucertain points and to the galleryat' other points."

body portion, a gallery surrounding the body portion, a crirnped metal ribbon placed between the body and the gallery and adapt- 3, An article of jewelry comprising a i I edito be secured to the'bo'dy and the-gallery 1 at alternatepoints. y

' 4. The-method of manufacturing "galleried: articles of jewelry consisting in form-, ing'a body, a gallery and a bridging portionfor the body and" galleryyin separate parts;

the parts being sorelated thatwhen assembled theabridging portion will surround the body, and the gallery will surround the bridging. portion, the bridging portion; be-

to the) :body-p; and, with v contacting points;

"on the other side" thereof,- and securing such contacting points thereof to the gallery.-

vrlintestimony swher eof, Ihave aflixedrny signature tovthis specification.

- ing'pro ided with contactingpoints on one v side thereof, securing *such' contactingi points;

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